St. Charles Trolley Ride

The St. Charles Avenue Line began service in 1835, powered initially by steam locomotives then transitioning to horse and mules before finally settling on the current electric lines in 1893. Despite the intermittent delay wrought by hurricane Katrina in 2005, it remains the world’s oldest continuously operated electric railway line to date, surviving both the introduction and popularity of the automobile as well as the closure of the Canal Street Line in 1964 (service on this line was finally re-established in 2004). The now iconic green streetcars were originally designed and built by the Perley A. Thomas Car Company in 1923. Since then modifications have been made to enhance the function of the remaining original cars, and newly constructed more efficient streetcars (identifiable by their red color) were added to the lines. Yet, the vintage carriage design of both the newer stock and the older stock was thoughtfully preserved, regardless of the changing trends in modes of public transportation during the mid to late 20th century. As such, New Orleans’ streetcars have an air of charm, and riding within the primarily wooden carriages is a chance to partake in a historic experience. Residents of New Orleans continue to take advantage of the streetcar lines daily, some as their primary mode of transportation and others as a leisurely pursuit.

With a very open-ended itinerary and a photographer in tow, I arrived near the start of the St. Charles Avenue Line on South Carrollton Avenue early (which in New Orleans translates to mid-morning, around 11ish). Using the trolley as my vehicle and the locals as my guide, I hopped from one locale to the next, allowing the most innocent of daily pursuits, namely eating and drinking, to inform my next discovery. As it so happens, just off the St. Charles Avenue Line, tucked away beneath the tree-lined streets and flanked on all sides by elegant, stately homes, lie some of the most delectable gems that the Crescent City has to offer.

1. Refuel Café 8124 Hampson Street New Orleans, LA 70118 504.872.0187 www.refuelcafé.com

Before beginning the journey, I opted for a shot of espresso and a bite to eat. Rounding the corner on South Carrollton near Camellia Grill, a staple late night good food fix, I stumbled upon Refuel Café. The intimate dining area is sleek and sophisticated boasting original abstract artwork by Suk Ja Kang Engles as the décor of choice. The overall ambience is hip, yet quaint and inviting. A deli case stocked with a colorful display of fruit salad and signature sides is the first indicator that the menu here will prioritize freshness and quality above convenience and quantity. Ordering from the weekend brunch menu, I chose the B-BLT with a side of delicious grits, so creamy and tasty you’ll never settle for instant again. Add a shot of espresso and I was in, out, and full for under $10.

My next stop led me to Prytania Street, just four blocks from the Jefferson Street exit. Surrounded by more modestly scaled homes than those lining St. Charles Avenue, the 4000 and 5000 blocks of Prytania feature a taste of most anything a real foodie could possibly crave.

After a survey of residents overwhelmingly requested the presence of a neighborhood ice cream parlor in the area, the owner of 4924 Prytania delivered. In true New Orleans fashion, Creole Creamery is a locally owned and operated eatery complete with a changing menu of seasonal flavors and a chef who concocts and creates these recipes in house. Order up a scoop of sweet potato sassafras praline or a homemade waffle cone with roasted red pepper and pineapple while you watch chef Bryan Gilmore whip up a fresh batch of champagne wedding cake.

3. The Wine Seller, Inc. 5000 Prytania St. New Orleans, LA 70115 4. St. James Cheese Company 5004 Prytania St New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 899-4737 stjamescheese.com

As late afternoon approached, it became quite apparent that if I was to blend in with the locals, I needed to get a drink in hand . . . and quickly. A brisk walk from the ice cream parlor to the 5000 block of Prytania revealed a cozy and delightful wine retailer, and immediately next to it, a gourmet cheese shop. A friendly alliance between these two businesses encourages visitors to purchase a bottle of wine at the Wine Seller, then tote it to the adjacent St. James Cheese Company to sip and enjoy on one of two outdoor patios, weather permitting.

Having recently returned home to New Orleans from a three-year stint at the famous Paxton and Whitfield in London, Richard Sutton knows his cheese. Along with his wife, Danielle, and their son, Finn, the Suttons are single-handedly responsible for importing the world’s finest artisanal cheeses to the Crescent City. Richard’s previous experience heading up the aforementioned 200-year-old cheese shop, also known as the Queen’s cheese shop, has secured his ability to import a quality of product otherwise unavailable in the U.S. As a resource for learning, the St. James Cheese Company is hands down the friendliest and most accessible environment to ask questions, sample flavors, and in general, learn about cheese. For the more adept and knowledgeable cheese lover, the St. James Cheese Company is quickly becoming a sought out destination.

5. The Columns Hotel 3811 St. Charles Ave. New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 899-9308 www.thecolumns.com

There’s nothing more southern in both hospitality and style than a welcoming front porch. At the Columns Hotel, a stately example of turn-of-the-century Louisiana architecture nestled among the arching oaks of St. Charles Avenue, the front porch is open to anyone seeking a taste of relaxed New Orleans’ elegance. Originally built as a residence in 1883, the Columns was later converted into a hotel by the current owners, Claire and Jacques Creppel. Folks gather every afternoon to ceremoniously sip Pimm’s Cups and Sazeracs, a drink conjured up right here in Louisiana in the early 19th century and touted as the first American cocktail. It’s the perfect spot to spend a relaxed afternoon in the Big Easy, just passing the time watching traffic and trolleys roll on by.

6. The Delachaise 3442 St. Charles Ave. New Orleans, LA (504) 895-0858 www.thedelachaise.com

Originally built in 1904 for the American Flower Company, this quirky little building set perpendicular to St. Charles Avenue has undergone many transformations prior to becoming the Delachaise. In 2003, former wine representative and now owner Evan Hayes decided to purchase the building, transitioning it from an Italian restaurant to a wine bar. But he didn’t stop there. Already equipped with a functioning kitchen, Hayes decided to bring a chef on board to develop a unique and savory menu to complement the ever-evolving wine selection. As a result, this quaint uptown establishment has built a reputation based on the combination of fine wine and fine food prepared and served up till 1 a.m. ✦