Quintessentially New Orleans: Memorable meals in a room with a view
When celebrating is in order, I usually make reservations at Ralph’s on the Park, which has become a new tradition among my friends. For 20 years, it was always dinner at Galatoire’s (where we continue to enjoy Friday lunch). However, the food at Ralph’s has become far better than Galatoire’s in the past couple of years, and the atmosphere at night is more alluring. From family birthday dinners to milestone occasions and casual impromptu gatherings, Ralph’s on the Park is my favorite restaurant for a memorable rendezvous after the sun goes down in New Orleans.
Overlooking the giant oak trees at the entrance of City Park, Ralph’s is housed in a charming 1860s building that personifies New Orleans. The dreamy murals by local artist Tony Green, candlelit tables, and live piano music from the adjacent bar create a vibe for plenty of toasting. Valet parking is a plus, especially for ladies who would prefer not to fuss with French Quarter parking. It is the best of both worlds: we can dine at a convenient, utterly stunning location with a view, while enjoying Ralph Brennan’s legendary food and exemplary service in mid-city New Orleans.
Opened in 2003, Ralph’s on the Park is the jewel in the crown of the celebrated dining establishments owned by tourism industry advocate Ralph Brennan. Recently appointed to the board of directors of the U.S. Travel Association and frequently interviewed by the national press, Brennan appeared in April on CBS’ The Early Show to discuss the one-year anniversary of the devastating BP oil spill in the Gulf. A frequent advocate for Louisiana seafood and tourism, he was formerly chairman of the board of the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center and president of the National Restaurant Association.
A fresh face in the dining room at Ralph’s on the Park is Kathryn Brennan, Ralph and Susan Brennan’s eldest daughter who became a manager seven months ago after relocating here from New York. When I asked Kathryn on a recent visit how her mom was doing, she told me the latest news. Susan is owner and developer of the new Second Line Stages, the first LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)-certified motion picture facility in the nation.
Meanwhile, New Orleans native Chef Chip Flanagan is in the kitchen cooking up a plethora of inspired local cuisine with an emphasis on fresh Louisiana seafood. In the evenings, the melodies of Joe Krown on the piano resonate from the spacious bar, where specialty cocktails and fine wines by the glass are served (a favorite spot among locals).
Chef Flanagan redefines Creole classics with a sense of adventure: crabmeat ravigote is fashioned into a multitiered Napoleon with layers of roasted corn, jumbo lump crabmeat, tomatoes, English cucumbers, and couscous; barbecue Gulf shrimp arrive in a zesty blonde beer broth with assorted wild mushrooms and a crisp brown buttered baguette; and sweet potato soup is finished with candied andouille and curried cream.
Brennan works with the chef to create the always-interesting nightly specials and menu items. A third generation restaurateur, he is always coming up with new concepts to expand his dining empire. Co-owner of Commander’s Palace and Mr. B’s Bistro in New Orleans, he is the sole owner of Red Fish Grill in the French Quarter, Ralph Brennan’s Courtyard Café inside the New Orleans Museum of Art, and Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen located at the Disneyland Resort.
Brennan recently opened two new restaurants. Café B’s is a casual eatery that opened in May on Metairie Road, featuring updated “neighborhood cuisine” (the hours are expanded to midnight on weekends). In March, Brennan opened Heritage Grill at Heritage Plaza on Veterans Memorial Boulevard in Metairie. Serving New American cuisine, it is designed to be a power lunch spot, serving lunch only (but with a new gourmet take-out dinner service). It also functions as the new location for Brennan’s vast catering operations.
I enjoy the “small plates” that one can now order at Ralph’ s on the Park (which is why we used to frequent Herbsaint and Lilette). There are also “snack plates” such as shrimp toast, boudin balls, and grilled asparagus. On our last visit, we had a ladies night out to celebrate a birthday, and were treated like royalty. The charming young Kathryn greeted us, and there was a flurry of waiters as usual, with balloons on the chair of the birthday girl.
Among the many small plates we sampled, my favorites included the Worcestershire and citrus-glazed lamb spare ribs that melted in the mouth and left me longing for more (the lamb was cooked 14 hours sous vide). The “disgruntled shrimp” was truly outstanding, tempura battered with the spicy afterglow of a chili garlic crème fraiche. We marveled at the unusual-but-delicious pan-seared Hudson Valley foie gras peanut butter and jelly sandwich, and ended up in a tug-of-war over the last bite of the scallop-wrapped bacon terrine with slow-cooked pork belly, asparagus chips, and smoked tomato butter.
The most outstanding entrée we shared that evening was the soft shell crab special that sent me on a brief trip to heaven. The crabs were fried in a light tempura batter and dipped with chopped pecans. They had just the right amount of spice, served with crawfish maque choux enriched with heavy cream and a hint of jalapeño. For dessert, a must is the chocolate mousse cheesecake paired with 10-year-old Miles Madeira Malmsey.
From the outstanding service to the charming ambience and globally-inspired reinterpretations of Louisiana classics, Ralph’s on the Park is the best dining concept among the Brennans’ restaurants to date. Given the family’s history of nationally acclaimed establishments, that is saying quite a lot. Reservations are highly recommended. (Located at 900 City Park Avenue; 504-488-1000). ✦
